An artist’s new view on Uluru

August 18th, 2010

 [We asked Leura artist, Jane Canfield to share with us her initial and vivid impressions of Alice Springs – her first trip to the area took place in June 2010.]

“From the air, I saw the ripples of sand and the colour of the ground changing into one huge abstract painting laid out to the curve of the horizon”.

The first night we spent in a B&B in Alice Springs (Alice Springs Station) and there I joined my other friends, Sophie Seeger (abstract expressionist artist), Karen Swaffer a Sydney based glass jewellery artist and Margot Turner who works at Ochre Indigenous Art Gallery in Leura.

The next day we set off in a huge 4WD. There Sophie had arranged to meet a man who was to make our trip the most amazing and informative 6 days of my life.  His name is Vincent Forrester, Indigenous Elder and Artist – a Luritja/Aranda man. Vincent acted as our guide for the next 6 days.

First stop Kings Canyon Resort.  Here we spent 2 nights and walked the rim of the canyon. Our first sunset was sitting in the dunes with ‘Sundowners’ watching the colours change in the desert. We watched the mountain range change hue from russet orange to mauve and purple… the ‘Dingo and her Pups’ (integral to the stories of the Aboriginal people.)  I was fascinated to hear that the stories relate directly to our very own 3 Sisters here in the Blue Mountains, part of the ‘7 sisters’ legend.

We saw sacred places where your average tourist does not see. At every opportunity I had my paints out creating colour studies. I painted at the mouth of a cave with Ghost Bats fluttering around me.  This was special for me as I am a WIRES carer and I care for injured bats.  The cave had special markings and the smoke from generations of fires was on the roof and the smell lingered.

As we travelled, Vincent told us stories of his people. I love Australia, but hearing these amazing stories, made the country come to life.  We went to Angus Downs Station, a place where Vincent spent a lot of his younger life as a stockman. Around the outside fire, his boyhood friend, Tim, the station manager – a ‘Black man in a white man’s body’– joined us for dinner. Then we returned to our camp. We slept in swags around the fire. I watched the moon move across the sky and saw a shooting star. I had a dream… a Dingo grabbed the back of my swag and was dragging me around the desert. I mentioned this the next morning and Vincent had the same dream! Apparently Dingos are cheeky.

We met Phillip and Sadie, at Lilla Community. We were shown more sacred places and they shared more stories. I was fascinated by the communities’ dogs. Anyone that knows me is aware that I have a soft spot for dogs. I feel this will be a special part of the upcoming group exhibition.

The colours in the desert are almost overwhelming. The sand is truly orange… the colours of the Mulga and the Spinifex against this creates a wonderful contrast to the vibrancy of the sand. Even dead Spinifex has a colour all its own, a sort of mauve blue grey all contorted into wonderful waves.  The stands of Desert Oaks create a vertical sculptural form in what are quite muted colours. And some of the Desert Oaks still had seed pods hanging from them. Against the sky and sand they appeared black, but close up, the seedpods lying on the sand were silver and look like little grenades.

Uluru and Kata Tjuta can be seen from each other. When you travel between them, both appear as such wonderful graphic shapes. Depending upon the time of day they hover against the horizon in reddish mauve and purple and all the colours in between. 

It is a shock to come across pockets of water – these areas are well vegetated. At the base of Uluru, in the gorge of Kings Canyon, little eco systems survive in a harsh yet stunning environment. Reflections in the pools of water are crystal clear, catching the vibrant sky and rocks. Sometimes a flicker of movement will alert you to a rock pigeon or a little lizard – almost camouflaged in their environment.

Everywhere on the sand are tracks of all sorts of creatures. Some larger: Dingo, Fox, Kangaroo but most are lizards and birds. It is a shame to ruin them with our big boot tracks.  And I couldn’t help thinking that I had just ruined something special by walking their way.

My trip to the centre of Australia opened my eyes in more ways than one. Not only did I discover how unique and stunningly beautiful this country is, but I saw some of the issues facing the communities, both Indigenous and non Indigenous.

Meeting Vincent, Phillip and Sophie and the people of the Lilla Community who welcomed us to their special part of the world opened my eyes to how this country lives and breathes through the Indigenous peoples.  We can learn so much from momentarily stopping and listening to them, not forcing them to live as we live, nor putting our slant on how they should live their lives.  We can learn from our indigenous friends. The respect they have for the land, and the animals that we share it with.

So anyone who is thinking of a trip to the centre of Australia, I highly recommend it. Avoid a busload of tourists, listen to the Aboriginal people, listen to the land and leave only footprints. Respect the Aboriginal people’s request – don’t climb Uluru.

 [Blogger’s note: Australia is a country of stunning natural wonders. Travellers from across the globe will be amazed and delighted to find them. Our local Leura residents, such as Jane Canefield are surrounded by a natural wonder — a designated world heritage park.  In the future, we will ask other Leura residents to share their travel experiences with you. It you would like to contribute, please let us know!

A quick post

July 29th, 2010

For all you artists or artists at heart, a beautiful 2-storey artist’s studio in a charming Leura Garden setting is available now for a short term rental. The studio is of Japanese architectural style and is very private and perfect for the artistic work at hand. Wonderful place for reading, meditation or taking tea in the garden. Call Jane Canfield for bookings on 0409 692 780. We love this space and in spring it should be Leura at its best!

And for a “pat on the back” to Leura’s Silk’s Brasserie: among the NSW Awards for Excellence, Silk’s won the 2010 Contemporary Australian Restaurant, Blue Mountains. This is a wonderful kudo for the staff and owner, Stewart Robinson and we aren’t surprised. In June, we stepped into Silk’s out of the Blue Mountains chill for lunch – a tender breast of chicken served on subtle greens — lite enough fare for lunch but warming the tummy in June weather. The “special” Silk’s bread is worth a thousand words on a wintry day.  We arrived early, but by 12:30pm tables began to fill. At a nearby table, a couple were celebrating with a bottle of bubbly — perhaps newly “in love,” but certainly enjoying the window table at Silk’s. Give yourself a Silk’s treat on your next visit to Leura.

Leura Gardens in Winter

June 27th, 2010

We invited Leura’s Barry Jarrott, owner of a landscape business and gardner extraordinaire to write today’s post and as one would expect, his thoughts turn to all that is beautiful (and blooming) in Leura in this season.

From Barry:

Mid June in Leura, the chill and damp juxtaposed with gorgeous bright frosty mornings. The last remnants of the perennial borders, cut back, mulched with leaf litter and put to rest for the winter. Autumn’s chores finally completed and a gardener’s mind turns to catalogues and with them, the promise of what could be in spring and summer.  

While visitors to Leura huddle around the wood fires and the warm hospitality of Leura’s interiors, the gardener’s spirit will always draw one outdoors.

An expedition into the crisp winter air rewards us with the exquisite perfume of Daphne, Witchhazel, Woodbine, and Wintersweet. Camellias with sumptuous blooms catch our eye and upon a closer look, nodding Hellebore flowers – a multitude of subtle intricacies of form and colour. Clumps of snowdrops with their simple and almost pure form and bright yellow winter Aconites – all combine to delight the senses of the gardener during this contemplative season.

 So slip into those gumboots, don a warm coat, wrap on a scarf, step outside and wander into the miracle of winter.

Winter is magical

June 19th, 2010

Today, the mountains came alive (especially Katoomba) with Winter Magic and magical it was. So many people, so much fun — kids and teenagers alike dressed for the occasion.  The sun warmed us and the chill didn’t come in until early afternoon when clouds began rolling in.

We made the mistake of driving today and we strongly recommend when planning for next year’s Winter Magic that you consider the train — much faster and much easier on the nerves. Stop & go traffic brings out the worst in our car!

We stopped by Leura for a very late lunch. Wayzgoose Cafe was packed to the rafters as was Bon Ton Cafe and Silk’s Brasserie. Every table at Silk’s was filled. The Post Office Cafe lit their wood burning fireplace, so it felt quite festive and cheery. Each had a great soup on the menu. Coming in out of the Katoomba cold, something hot and steamy was high on our wishlist.

Of course afterwards, we just had to do a little window shopping. After all, Leura is the shopping mecca of the Blue Mountains, but we’ll save that for later.  . . a post for just the gals.

a day @ Jemby Rinjah Blackheath Blue Mountains

May 19th, 2010

Last week (12May), a small group of Blue Mountains tourism providers met at Jemby Rinjah Eco Lodge to learn a bit more about social media platforms and how to best use them for our small businesses. Yes, it was Twitter and Facebook and TripAdvisor. While all that was interesting and some great people are working hard to provide good services for visitors, we were in exquisite surroundings — a natural bush setting where the most beautiful (small) birds are likely to take a seat on your shoulder or if you offer seed (provided by Jemby) perch upon your hand for a little snack.

Jemby has special memories for me as before immigrating to Australia and while on holiday my family spent a weekend on our way from Canberra to the Gold Coast at this beautiful eco lodge situated on seven hectares of pristine Nation Park.  The eco cabin and wood burning fire were quite cozy though the March night was not chilly.

The next morning, very early, the family six-year-old awakened us – the birds were waiting for their breakfast. Jemby provided seeds and a nature talk – all we had to do was hold out a flat palm and these glorious little birds were upon us. I had never seen such feathered colours before –  even recovering from jetlag, I was as excited as the youngest in the family.

Jetlag has a strange effect upon me — I can’t eat enough to satisfy my hunger and hunger seems to come upon me with great frequency. So, I spent much of my time that weekend eating the terrific food out on a sunny verandah.  Jemby Rinjah Lodge is approximately 25 minutes beyond Leura, just a kilometer or two before “downtown” Blackheath. Take a look at the website. http://www.jembyrinjahlodge.com.au/

artists in the Blue Mountains

April 25th, 2010

There are many artists in the Leura/Katoomba/Wentworth Falls surrounds and those we have met  are terrific…thought you would like to know as several have studios you can visit or make an appointment to visit.  Last week (19April) we met Jane Canfield at her studio on Craigend St. in Leura. (Studio is opened to the public the last Sunday of each month).

We love her oils on canvas and often the theme is a mountain village, train stations, fishing villages or beaches. There is a geometric design to Jane’s work — sharp roof lines, steps, train tracks, windows on a fishing cottage, the occasional triangle of a lamp post — and always a brash & bold colour standing out upon a subtle background. It’s her use of  texture that is so pleasing and on her bigger works the layering is quite dramatic.  (Jane has won a number of awards in the past 18 months.)

From Leura Mall, a 10-minute walk delivers you to Jane’s tiny studio in the lovely garden of her mom’s guesthouse, Argyll House. Call for an appointment if you are in Leura on a weekday or not on the last Sunday of the month,  0409 69 2780

An autumn day in Leura

April 12th, 2010

Wednesday(April 7) Leura was definitely in a holiday mood — groups of international student and otherwise travellers filled the streets along side parents & kids (Australian school break) enjoying another perfect sunny day.  At times, we want solitude; other times we love being in the middle of what seems like a party — laughter, voices, walking along a crowded mall — the human party. And this was Leura at her best — as though all her invited guests had shown up and she, too was enjoying the party.

From the Gourmet Deli, we broke our ‘dieting will’ and chose a blood orange ice cream — our only defense, ”low calories”.  The blood orange was fantastic, yummy! Stopped in at Megalong Books, the favorite independent  in the Blue Mountains looking for a very dated novel — 1930’s. The staff is amazing — they actually read! Couldn’t recall the author’s name and voila, they recognized the title and identified the author.

We walked down to Canfield Studio http://www.canfield.com.au/ on Craigend Street. (see map http://www.leurabluemountainsguide.com/blue-mountains-maps.html)  Artist Jane Canfield opens by appointment and also the last Sunday of the month. This amazing young artist . . . well, we’ll save this part of our ‘perfect autumn day in Leura’ for another post . . .

a hidden gem in Leura Blue Mountains Australia

March 27th, 2010

Sublime Point Lookout, Sublime Point Road, Leura

We suggest you consider this walk because of its stunning beauty and, because it is out of the way many visitors to the Blue Mountains fail to find it.

The walk out to Sublime Point Lookout is an easy walk but is NOT recommended for small children.  http://www.leurabluemountainsguide.com/blue-mountains-maps.html  This map is for illustrative purposes only, but it will give you a visual of the lookout and the escarpment along the Leura side of Jamison Valley.

Unfortunately the sightseeing buses do not drive out to the point, but will drop you off approximately one kilometer from the site – trekkers walking through the residential area to the parking lot is a common sight.

Once in the parking lot, it will take you only 5 minutes – approximately 750 metres – to walk to the lookout, down steep steps, so use caution. Wear shoes that grip and in winter, warm clothes and gloves. The steps are steep and rocky and after a rain, can be muddy. Stuff your hat in your backpack as the wind can come up the canyon suddenly and hats go flying.

We’re adding a link to a podcast of the walk, http://www.leurabluemountainsguide.com/blue-mountains-bushwalk. html. The podcast will give you a full description of the walk, the scenery and the joy we experienced upon discovering Sublime Point. Often, the lookout feels as though it is yours alone – an early morning visit and you may be the only person there.

Enjoy!

All roads lead to Leura

March 21st, 2010

On www.leurabluemountainsguide.com we’ve placed a signpost of the distances from several Aussie cities — Sydney, Brisbane, Melbourne, Canberra — those within driving distance, albeit 13 hours driving might be a bit much. We thought it might help those of you who have heard of the Blue Mountains, but not much beyond the name.

So today, (21March) we will describe traveling to Leura by train from Sydney Central.  Please note, if you plan to stay overnight purchase a one-way ticket as a “return” or “roundtrip” must be used on the same day.

For accommodation, you’ll find all types, some are upmarket, others moderately priced. Descriptions can be found on http://www.leurabluemountainsguide.com/qpaccommodation.html .  If you are a backpacker, nearby Katoomba’s hostels are quite nice — very clean, nice lounge facilities and other amenities. (Katoomba Station is one stop beyond the Leura Station.) Both hostels are close to the main streets of Katoomba and the train station. Now back to our initial intent: traveling to Leura by train.

Recommendation 1: We recommend traveling early and light if possible as on most trains,  overhead luggage space is rare and you cannot place luggage in the aisle. We travel this route often and travellers with three and four pieces of luggage are the bane of the commuters on their way to work. Rule of thumb: if you can sit on it (luggage) or put it under your feet, you’re in good shape. Going early — it’s a 2 hour trip – allows you a full day to explore and there is much natural beauty to see. An overnight is well worth the $$$ you spend as with two days, you can see and do so much more. March is a great month in the mountains — fog is minimal and temperatures usually moderate though you may need a sweater or jumper on some nights.

Recommendation 2: On the trip up the mountains to Leura, grab a seat on the left side of the car. On the return trip down the mountain, again sit on the left side — two distinct impressions. The views, once you are in the mountains are stunning — sandstone walls so close you could touch them and broad vistas looking out across the huge world heritage national park. Check the schedule at Central Station - you want the Blue Mountains Express with limited stops as the first hour of the trip is quite ordinary — city suburbs — and you’ll want to limit those stops. At Emu Plains, you’ll see the first of very old and charming train stations — most are architecturally similar and each year the station masters compete for the “station most beautifully landscaped” prize. After the Emu Plains stop, be prepared for some neck craning and a thrilling climb up to the first Blue Mountains village, Lapstone.  Beyond Emu Plains Station, the train stops at every village — among them, old villages that existed before the rails were built in the 1800(s).

For you history buffs, this link, http://www.leurabluemountainsguide.com/blue-mountainshistory.html will fill in  details about the birth of Leura and it reason for being even today. It remains a charming Edwardian village, very upmarket, but unique in the Blue Mountains.

Final tip:  The local sightseeing buses (fee approximately $20 AU)  offer a “hop-on, hop-off” pass and run hourly along the scenic route between Leura and Katoomba in the Blue Mountains.  If this is your first visit to Leura, use the buses — Blue Mountains Explorer or Trolley Shoppe Tours – for a quick education to familiarise yourself on the scene between Leura and Katoomba.  There are scheduled pick ups at all the attractions and along the Prince Henry Cliff Walk. Each stop is clearly marked, usually on a nearby utility pole. The drivers are tremendously helpful. This is a great way to get acquainted and plan your schedule to see as many attractions as possible in the Blue Mountains.

Next week, we’ll talk about a short Leura walk out to a stunning vista, Sublime Point Lookout that many visitors never find.

The Perfect Leura Day

March 1st, 2010

Saturday (27Feb) was a Leura day one longs for — moderate temperatures, a deep blue sky with a few fluffy white clouds high above and absolute calm brought out visitors and locals alike. We arrived at Post Cafe & Bar a bit early,  before lunch was fully in the shoppers’ minds. The veggie quiche was quite tasty, though the portion might be a bit small for a male appetite. My friend ordered the ‘fish&chips’ and thought it very very good.  By 1pm, every seat was filled both inside and out on the shaded patio. Everyone seemed in a terrific mood. The service is quite good @Post Cafe, prices are moderate and the menu is traditional Aussie fare.

Picnickers lined the grassy mall, shoes kicked off and getting a few rays. After lunch, we cruised a few shops, made a great purchase at Cicero’s and hopped on the train for a leisurely trip down the mountain.  The day will be a nice warm memory once the cold arrives in June!